Photo shows belays with the optional belay near th...
Description
One Hand Clapping starts on a ledge on the main Black Wall face below an obvious tall, twin crack system slanting right. Climb the twin cracks requiring good hand jamming techniques (5.8) and continue up to a belay with bolted anchors. Climb the steep, thin crack above to a slab. Continue up and left (a little runout here) and continue up and left through a steep, weird, intimidating, slanting left flaring corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the 5.9 crux. From here you can continue up and left on easier face climbing to the large Lizard ledge. A fun alternative is to step right to a cool, small, exposed ledge and belay. We had 4 people on this ledge which was very cozy indeed! Climb straight up on a fairly difficult crack/slab to Lizard ledge. The final, long 5.6 pitch has a surprising, tricky section about 50' up. This is a must do climb! Lots of good solid fun climbing! I would say though that the leader should be a very solid 5.9/5.10 climber as there are sections that are strenous, tricky, and a little difficult to properly protect!
Protection
This route is fairly well protected using a standard rack. Belays have adequate anchors and/or placements. The second pitch is a bit runout on the face after the short thin crack. It's not too difficult but care should be taken.
By John Korfmacher From: Fort Collins, CO Dec 15, 2005 rating: 5.9
NOBODY has posted yet on this route?! That's amazing. I am honored to be the first sprayer. I first climbed (rather, I was hauled up) this route with Catherine Davis in 1998. I was a newbie at the time and swore if I could ever lead the crux, I would consider myself a real climber. I have climbed it numerous times since, mostly with Mike Henderson of Reno. I finally led it in 2001. We like the route so much we call ourselves the One Hand Clapping Climbing Club. If you only climb one route on Donner, do this one.
P1 is the coolest 5.8 crack you will ever climb. Be sparing with pro early on the first pitch, as it's easy to run out of #2-#3 Camalot size stuff toward the top. Save your #10 stopper for the bottom of the double crack system. Fun fun fun pitch.
P2 (crux) pitch is strenuous and scary, although the protection is very good. The reason for the name of the route will become obvious about halfway up. Stay on the 5.9 ground or prepare to pay the penalty; a friend of mine got off route, broke his ankle, and climbed no higher than the edge of his couch for the rest of the season. This pitch feels harder than it really is, and will raise the heart rate of even experienced leaders.
P3 is fairly easy, but fun also. Descend and treat yourself to Tacos Jalisco.
Black Wall
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