This sport route is on the WAY Right side of the black wall, and is an excellent sport climb the has a section of some of Tahoe's finest 5.10 face edging.
To access the route, Get over to the right side of the Black Wall, which is easy if you find the tiny hidden path, or really annoying if you don't. Finding the path along the base of the wall is easy, finding the path from the turnout is NOT.
Once you've found the right side of the wall, head up towards the overhang of Lightning Bolt Roof, which you can't miss.
This route is well over a hundred feet from the ground, so be prepared to lower off with 2 ropes or have someone follow. It is also possible to belay from the top of the ramp, though a good place to stand and a good place to set up a fast anchor are sorely lacking. And then you'd have to downclimb a slippery 5.6 ramp.
From the ground, climb the ramp up to the first bolt, which is roughly 50 feet off the ground. From here, vertical face climbing on small edges ensues up a black face, and doesn't let up until just before a solid rest edge some 50' later. Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary. It is possible to walk around to the right to access the top anchors, but this unprotected fourth class finish isn't in league with the rest of the climb and really cases rope drag.
Lower off with 2 ropes, or walk off to the right.
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anochor. NOTE - the last bolt on Carville's topo is no longer there.
If you want to climb the route from the ground, a small cam (_1") or two might make the initial ramp more comfortable.
Black Wall
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