Made in Japan is a long vertical climb that begins on the blunt arete on the main face of Space Wall. It first uses a finger crack before finding its way past a series of flakes to some technical face moves before finally turning the arete and finishing on some easier slabby granite.
Some of the large flakes are a little loose and will probably fall off one day. I recommend getting on the route before that happens because Made in Japan isn't worth missing.
Protection
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Recommend a sling for 3rd bolt.
Just a couple of updates to this area. If you plan on parking close to the summit of Donnar Pass, for climbes on school house rock, grouse slabs, star wall, and others, try to park on the road. Sugar Bowl Academy (formerly ASI) does not allow the general public to use their parking lot. If you are going to park there, make sure you are in the dirt part close to the metal shed. The same thing goes for the bathrooms in the school. They legally can not allow public to use them so please dont ask. The closest restrooms are, the outhouse in front of snowshed, donner ski ranch(if someone happens to be there in the summer), and 2 miles back towards I-80 in the cafe. If you have any questions on the area, I do live here part time. There are some great climbes!!!
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Jun 5, 2006
The first clip is zesty, and a spotter or 3 will definately help in case your hand pops before you get the first draw clipped.
It's also worth noting that there is a new route that is NOT in Carville's book, which sits immediately left of Made in Japan. This route (I don't remember the name) is a 5.12c, and will be an interesting sustained surprise for anyone expecting the .11a Made in Japan.
The easiest way to find Made in Japan is to find the route ON the Arete at the start and finish.
Space Wall
RSS Feed
