BETA PHOTO: Snowshed wall as seen from a full parking lot on a...
Description
Good climb. This line starts up by Peter Prinicpal, a ways left of Ariel and Devaluation Direct. Start up into a hole in the wall. Work up to and into a bonb-bay squeze chimney, which is climbed and protected via some finger cracks int he back of it. Step out and to the climber's right as the climbing gets harder. There are crux feet and righ-hand side-pulls to be had. Finish the line up on jams and locks with good feet to the top.
The top-anchor or TR can be set with a direction at the top of the crack, then setpping to climber's left up top to a set of bolts/chains.
Protection
Standard Rack of stoppers and cams. THe crux is not exactly sewn up, but a 2-2.5" cam rack under the A-frame roof and a few stoppers or TCU's before it make it safe enough, even if exciting at a leader's limit.
I have to disagree on the star rating. This is a fantastic climb. Easy start to bombay chimney, squeeze out and pull above it, then an easier, but not easy crack to the top. Definately 3 or 4 stars
Like many other climbs, this one was added to the site when there was only a 3 star system, and at the time the 2-out-of-three star designation was similar to the three-out-of-four designation is now. A great route that you would repeat. So there is really no disagreement. I have edited the rating now that a change rating menu is available for the submitter.
Go left-side-in for the crux. It's a trifle easier than it looks but still on the spicy side. Save some strength and a #2 Camalot for the upper (5.8-5.9ish) crack; it's not a gimme.