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Snowshed Wall
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Devaluation Direct 

5.10a R

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 98 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Sep 28, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Snowshed wall as seen from a full parking lot on a...


Description 

This is the single-most obvious line from the parking area. The crack runes the full length of the main wall (30M tall) and goes up a slot down low, past some crack and some left-facing corners, past a huge death block 50' up. The block is avoided via reaching the corner/handcrack on the right of it. Continue on easy terrain (5.5?) to the top, where a few hexes and nuts (cams OK too) build a solid TR anchor.

The beginning is awkward and is not for the novice trad leader. A bit of a sandbag as well, given 5.9+ by the book.

To descend, Walk to climbers right to some bolt anchors, or over the top to a loose gully.


Protection 

Standard Rack including cams from tiny to 4" and a set of nuts + optional tricams. Heavy on the TCU's. You can set a TR from gear up top, but with a 60M rope, it will require attention to get both ends down.There is some difficulty placing gear in a few sections.



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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Can also start this route just right and up the "gully" to make it into a 5.9 with good pro.

I know at least one person who pulled their gear and cratered on the 10a R start, so watch yerself if you decide to go that route.

By Willoughby
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ PG13

WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!


If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.