TRing Ariel. Just about to start the more difficu...
Description
The prominent arete can be seen from the parking pullout. The blunt feature really climbs on both sides, and can be identified from the base by the large hanging flakes near the top pf the right side (a little off of the line, which can go direct).The book-given grade of 11b seems overgraded.The climb is certainly fun and on good rock with good moves, with 2 definate cruxes along the way, mostly on small but positive holds. Rap off from the top when complete.
Protection
5 or 6 draws to reach a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is up over the top, so to lower off or TR, take longer slings or some cord.
Ariel is rated 11b, sandbagging isn't cool, people can get seriously hurt or even die, have you ever seen the aftermath of a bad accident at a cliff, serious bummer for everyone.
Everything is 5.9 or 5.10 if you climb it enough, ratings for any area should be based on an on-sight lead attempt. Down-grading a climb that you have "wired" creates a dangerous situation for a visiting climber. Check your hat sizes for any recent changes.
By Karsten From: Reno, NV Jun 8, 2009 rating: 5.10d
Recently gave this route the true onsite and don't think its anywhere close to .11b. I think it is a very technical climb but comparing it to some of the other climbs in the area I think giving it a .10d rating is generous. The crux sections are all well protected.
This goes back to the age old debate about ratings but remember that they are just a guide. I think that if you were a .10b climber that you would not get hurt on this climb in its current state. Whether you TR or lead it, this is a fun climb.
I remember doing Ariel in '84, scared shitless. Years later I lived in Zephyr Cove and climbed it again with my wife, noticing that it had about twice as many bolts...much more fun that way.
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