BETA PHOTO: Jelly Roll Arch, 1st Pitch (unknown climber)
Description
This is a must-do route on the east face of Grouse Slab. The route climbs slab underneath the obvious diagonal roof (the Arch), then turns the corner and climbs cracks for another 70 feet or so. Start at the blocks below the terminus of the Arch. Climb up into it and traverse left, protecting in the crack. After turning the corner, belay at the ledge system when rope drag becomes a bitch. A couple 2-3" pieces are helpful. Climb through the crack/roof system abover (its easy 5.5-5.6) and up to a tree belay. Descend to the south.
Protection
A set of stoppers and a set of cams to 3". The route has a reputation for being difficult to protect, and therefore runout, but I found it was plenty safe with solid gear when I needed it.
Climbing under the arch is done by smearing and small handholds in the small crack under the arch. Protection under the arch is accomplished by using small stoppers, hexes and mini-cams. We did it in two pitches to reduce rope drag. Our first belay was at the end of the arch. The second belay was at the trees. We have seen other climbers do this in one pitch, but the rope drag at get really bad at the end. The second pitch is relatively easy.
Jellyroll Arch is a great climb which protects fine but there are sections traversing under the arch that are a little runout. Basically I face climbed the whole way with only using holds under the arch while placing gear. Mine was an all cam ascent... Although Scott belayed at the end of the arch (probably because of rope drag), I continued up the lieback flakes to just below the alcove/overhang to a comfortable spot with good gear. To reduce drag, I didn't place gear till up at the arch eliminating drag from gear in the corner. I really didn't feel anything this way. The second pitch is a fun pitch that protects easily. My second walked all the way up with feet in the crack. Halfway up I ended up below the crack smearing up the face with decent lieback/jams. Walking up the crack sure looked easier. All in all, a fun climb that was more exciting than I thought it would be!
By Brad Allender From: Alameda, CA Dec 15, 2006 rating: 5.8
Great route, lots of fun. If you are climbing with a group of 3, make sure the second climber clips all the pieces with the second rope. Otherwise, you could leave the third climber with a potential groundfall pendulum as he cleans.