Hitonmi struggles at the Pwerful Crux of "Karl's G...
Description
Karl's Gym begins as a clean fist crack through the first roof. Higher up, the crack becomes thinner and more fractured as you pull through the second crux.
Protection
Gear to 2.5", there are three rap bolts shared by "Hanz and Franz" at the top. To top rope, either hike all the way around the rock, (which is pretty far either way you chose) or first climb one of the easier climbs to the right, then reach the bolts from above. About a 20' sling will help reduce rope drag.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Oct 9, 2002 rating: 5.10d
The initial crack section of this route is a great overhanging workout.
Lotsa work for a 5.10d!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 29, 2003 rating: 5.10d
The climb as described seems off. I jammed a few flakes with handjams to reach the firt roof, whereupon I had a hard time getting anything larger than my second knuckle in. I'd call it a slanting fingercrack through a roof, really, witha few "super secret" hidden jugs and a few thin hands jams here and there, after the first crux (10d). THe upper crack is a wide stem area with nice layback holds (10b). THe 3-bolt anchor up top goes fine with a cordalette or a few 2' slings.Short people (_ 5'5") can pull therough the roof into a funky leaning sloper lieback which gets "good" when you paste a foot out right onto the flake just below the lip and reach for the good hold/crack.
Fun, but not a classic. There are better lines at the cliff.
A fair 10d where I am from, but might be harder than other climbs of the same grade at this cliff. Very hard for shorter people.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Apr 17, 2007
physical roof pull down low. I didn't find the hidden jugs and went with my old standby, the desperation lunge.
upper crux is a little easier, but the stem is pretty slick.
I followed this. My partner led it, and took a couple falls on the low crux. He only had a yellow alien, and a top piece red alien in. Every time he fell, the lead end clipped back into the yellow alien, 3x in a row, so we had to throw a locker on there to keep it out!
Snowshed Wall
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