Located on the southern side of Lake Tahoe, Christmas Valley features tons of climbing, most of which has never been done before because the approach to most of the climbing is steep and fairly long.
The rock is severely weathered granite, but established routes tend to be on sturdy rock.
Detox Wall has been the sight of some recent first ascents, and even Carville's guide to the area isn't quite up to date (nor does he have the name right... look for Christmas Tree Valley in his book). Check out Sports Ltd. (1032 Emerald Bay rd. In the South Y Center South Lake Tahoe) to ask the climbing dudes about most up-to-date info.
Getting There
From the Bay Area, take 80 East to Business 80 in Sacramento, then hop on 50 east. Follow this over Echo Pass, then take a right on highway 89 (to Kirkwood).From Lake Tahoe, take 50 west and go left on 89 about 3 miles past the town of Meyers.
Once on 89, you've entered Christmas Valley. Parking for Hidetaka's Hideout is .9 miles up the road, and Luther Rock is a few miles further.
The pull-out for Luther Rock (the Distillery and Detox wall) is on the right side of the road .9 miles past Portal Rd.Luther Rock is visable from the pull-out where you should park. Its a long way above the road facing Echo Pass.
Widow Maker is claimed to be one of the best face climbs at Luther Spires and it certainly is a challenging and fun route! This is one of the two furthest left and furthest up routes in the Supertopo South Lake Tahoe Climbing guide book by Chris McNamara. There are two ways to get to the route. Once you arrive at the Spires from the approach path, walk left. After only 30-40 feet the path either leads up along the spires or down to underneath...[more]
The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Oct 11, 2007
Rented a house in Christmas Valley last winter and got to spend some time wandering around, but not doing much climbing.
There's a boulder on Blitzen, which is the road that is one block west of highway 89 about 1/4 mile south of 50, which (I think) is called The Blitzen Boulder. I was told of 100+ problems, but I only think there are about 15 on a 12' boulder. Maybe the boulder, which is located in between 3 houses between colusa and shakori (and probably on private property), isn't the blitzen Boulder.
I'd ask one of the neighbors before climbing to respect their privacy, and probably one of the two that doesn't have the huge growling rottweiler fenced up in their yard.
There's also additional bolted and TRAD climbing in the cliffs directly east of 89 if you head straight up hill from 89 and Elf ave. It's a 15 minute steep walk to the first bolts, and there are many other cliffs up above the first band.