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Tahoe Vicinity
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Donner Pass / Truckee 
South Lake Tahoe 

Tahoe Vicinity 


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Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 18, 2006

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Emerald Bay.
Photo by Blitzo.


Lake Tahoe and Vicinity 

Beautiful, Spacious, and often Daunting, The Sierras in the Tahoe Area contain some of the best summer climbing in California. The area is almost covered in climbable rock, and route setters will delight at the bounty of untouched rock.

Consisting mostly of Granite, with a few Baslitic Exceptions, you will find climbs off all type, like the long tradional or sport routes at Lover's Leap, to the pumpy tall bouldering found EVERYWHERE, but most notably Donner and Pack Saddle Passes.

Climbing is year round in some places, though most areas are covered in snow from the first snow (usually in October or November) until March - June depending on altitude and direction of the rock.

Places to stay are plentyful, from blm camping, organized campgrounds, cheap hotels, to even four star hotels in Reno or South Lake.


Getting There 

From the Bay Area, head up Highway 80 to Sacramento, where you will either head up into the hills either on 80, 50, or 89, depending on where you're going.

From Reno, head up Highway 80 to go to North Lake destinations, or down highway 395 , and then West on highway 89 into South Lake Tahoe.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahoe Vicinity:
Surrealistic Pillar   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet   Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress
Corrugation Corner   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Lover's Leap : Main Wall
Bear's Reach   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Lover's Leap : East Wall
Jellyroll Arch   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Donner Pass : Grouse Slab
Haystack   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   Lover's Leap : East Wall
Fear of Flying   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches   Phantom Spires : Upper Spire
One Hand Clapping   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Donner Pass : Black Wall
Black September   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Donner Pass : Black Wall
The Line   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Lover's Leap : East Wall
Traveler Buttress   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Lover's Leap : Main Wall
Nova Express   5.9     Trad   Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall
Hospital Corner   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 240 feet   Lover's Leap : West Wall
Surrealistic Pillar Direct   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress
One Of These Days   5.10b/c     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress
Candyland   5.10c     Trad   Phantom Spires : Middle Spire
The Fracture   5.10d     Trad   Sugarloaf : East Face
Boot Hill   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Lover's Leap : Main Wall
Space Walk   5.11c/d     Trad, 1 pitch   Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff
Metallarete   5.12d     Sport   Echo Lakes : Goldfinger Area
Grand Illusion   5.13b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sugarloaf : East Face
Browse More Classics in Tahoe Vicinity


Featured Route For Tahoe Vicinity
New guidebooks probably have a prettier and more accurate topo but this one is free.

Pillar of Society 5.12a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Buttress
Pillar of Society is the first route you come to, as it is right at the top of the trail from the campground to the Lower Buttress. Look for the giant 3' diameter cobble....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Tahoe Vicinity Slideshow Add Photo
Lake Tahoe from East Shore. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Lake Tahoe from East Shore.
Photo by Blitzo.


Lake Tahoe from "The Cave", 1987. <br />Cave Rock is now closed to climbing, so don't climb there! <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Lake Tahoe from "The Cave", 1987.
Cave Rock is now...


Geese. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Geese.
Photo by Blitzo.


Fanette Island, Emerald Bay. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Fanette Island, Emerald Bay.
Photo by Blitzo.


Tahoe Beer conetop can, 1940s.

Tahoe Beer conetop can, 1940s.

Tahoe Beer.

Tahoe Beer.

Tahoe Beer.

Tahoe Beer.

An Osprey perched high above Fallen leaf lake

An Osprey perched high above Fallen leaf lake

Beginning the hike to Mt. Tallac with fallen leaf lake and Lake Tahoe in the background

Beginning the hike to Mt. Tallac with fallen leaf ...

Tahoe keys from the summit of Mt. Tallac

Tahoe keys from the summit of Mt. Tallac

The Desolation wilderness from Mt. Tallac

The Desolation wilderness from Mt. Tallac

Brett making friends with the locals on Mt. Tallac summit

Brett making friends with the locals on Mt. Tallac...

Busy day on the summit of Mt. Tallac

Busy day on the summit of Mt. Tallac

Tahoe Glass

Tahoe Glass

Eldorado Beach-Spring. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Eldorado Beach-Spring.
Photo by Blitzo.


Desolation Wilderness. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Desolation Wilderness.
Photo by Blitzo.


Tahoe Keys, Crystal Range and Mt. Tallac. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Tahoe Keys, Crystal Range and Mt. Tallac.
Photo by...


Donner Lake on a balmy December day.

Donner Lake on a balmy December day.

Shawn Watson's stunning photo of the fabulous Steeple AKA The Aguilee de Dread

Shawn Watson's stunning photo of the fabulous Stee...

20 minute crag

20 minute crag

Tahoe North Shore. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Tahoe North Shore.
Photo by Blitzo.


Speaks for itself <br /> <br />January 2011

Speaks for itself

January 2011


December sunset.

December sunset.

lovin tahoe

lovin tahoe


Comments on Tahoe Vicinity Add Comment
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By Aerili
From: Reno, NV
May 26, 2010

With regard to the weather link at the top of the page (or any of the Tahoe Vicinity pages): I would ALWAYS use noaa.gov vs wunderground.com when researching the Tahoe area forecasts. Much more accurate!!