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Tollhouse Rock
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Tollhouse Traverse 

5.5

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II
Views: 990 page views

Submitted By: Dave Loring on Jan 29, 2006


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The third pitch, starting the 5.7 bolted slab opti...


Description 

From the parking area at the top of the Sunday slabs, descend the trail to the bottom of the Sunday/Saturday slabs, and hike west about 300 yards below the face below and past an obvious half-circle shaped flake. A left leaning flake, 200 feet high is the start for a number of routes. The Tollhouse Traverse is the large left-leaning groove/crack system on the left side of this flack. Follow it for two and a half pitches (bolted belays), then choose to climb bolted slab, the right-leaning dihedral, or climb over the dihedral to slab. The final pitch is 3rd-4th class.


Protection 

One set of cams to 4", one-two sets of nuts. The occassional bolt.



Photos of Tollhouse Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Brian B about halfway up on the first pitch of the Tollhouse Traverse.

Brian B about halfway up on the first pitch of the...

Tom Slater and Brian Utterback on the T.T.<br />

Tom Slater and Brian Utterback on the T.T.


Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) and 5.7 option. Lots of protection and even (GASP!) bolts next to the crack if you're having trouble with the trad pro. Perhaps the best 5.5 in the country.

BETA PHOTO: Tollhouse Traverse (5.5) and 5.7 option. Lots of p...

A great place to learn to simul. Derek starting it off.

A great place to learn to simul. Derek starting it...


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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 31, 2006

An undeniable classic for the grade. If I'm remembering correctly, it's been climbed in roller skates!

By Brian Borowicz
From: Visalia, CA
Feb 1, 2006

If your in the area this is a must do route!

By Slater
Feb 15, 2006

An awesome route, with two fun options to finish with: A Nutcracker-style mantel, or a classic book. Both finish at the same anchors.

By Wade Griffith
Apr 19, 2006

Somebody supposedly lead it on rollerskates while the follower did it in X-country skis. We used to chain up at least 15 to 20 people in a mass simulclimb assault when the Tollhouse Face Off was still happenin in the 90's. Whatever happened to the Face Off? Any other local climbing gatherings still happenin in the area?

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Jan 26, 2009

Used to do "laps" on this one.....9 laps in one afternoon. Did a car-to-car from the Hang Glider Slab: 20 min 12 seconds.

Oh, and for those interested......Mark Hammond (lives in Fresno) did one of the first ascents using roller skates. Still active (63 years young) and member of the SSCA.

By Aaron Formella
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Jul 11, 2009
rating: 5.5

Very fun and certainly classic! I've climbed this route four times. Three of the times I've taken the spicy mantle move over the wall toward the end, the other time I followed along the same wall that forms the book. I think the mantle move is definitely a higher grade than 5.5. Perhaps 5.7ish? Following the inside corner of the book continues along as 5.5

By GG Park
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 28, 2009

I concur with Aaron's previous post. The mantle move is straight-forward, airy, fun and should not be missed. It's also 5.7.