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Grotto, The
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AC Devil Dog 

5.10d

   

FA: Mike Stewart, 1991
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 597 page views

Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 29, 2002


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Alex lowering off the Dog. Not exactly an "Action ...


Description 

The refrigerator-wide double arete up the largest pillar of the grotto. Feet get more friendly as you get higher, but for the first 2 bolts, you have to trust your smear.


Protection 

5 bolts to hangers either left or right of the column.You can lead an easier trad climb nearby to set up a top rope if you so desire, but put in a directional or two if you do.



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A.C. Devil Dog with bolts as viewed from above the Oort Wall.  Top anchors are out of the picture either up and left, or up and right.

BETA PHOTO: A.C. Devil Dog with bolts as viewed from above the...


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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Sep 30, 2002
rating: 5.10d

And trust your grip, as the hands through this section consist of nothing more than the aretes, which are slightly rounded in the beginning.

Badass! Good luck finding these moves anywhere else.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 25, 2006
rating: 5.10c

Area classic. Crux is probably getting to the first bolt. Surprinsgly secure moves once you get into the groove.

By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
Jan 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d

great climb, very unique. I'd give it .10d just because of the opening moves. I'd advise stepping up from the left and preclipping the first bolt, then starting from the ground.

By Amy Sturgill
From: Nevada City
Jan 16, 2008

HAHA! Great fun but good luck climbing gracefully on this one!