Brad finishing up on Chicken Ranch Bingo. Climb wa...
Description
Yeeee Haaaa! Goin to the Chicken Ranch! For Bingo! Named for a couple of reasons, for the Bingo place that's nearby, and also for the excellent slippery feeling you'll get hitting some of the upper holds in the Summer and Fall. Never mind the stink.
This is the rightmost climb in The Grotto, and is the only route that starts outside of the Grotto on the right side. Before the Class 3 downclimb into the Grotto, look for the bolts of Chicken Ranch Bingo above the columns. Climb up the columns to a traverse move accross the top of the columns. It's a ways to the first bolt, but climbing is probably only 5.6 until a 5.8 move right before the first bolt. Head up for a while on overhung but excellent holds. Continue softly right, and then Softly left for a balancy traversy section right before the top anchors. Climbing is solid 5.10b once you get past the columns until the top anchors.
Lowering directly into the pit below requires a 60 meter rope,, so lower wisely with shorter ropes.
Protection
9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Sidewinder (5.11d). 2 of the bolts are manky 1/4", so it's more like 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring slings for the first bolt (or skip it), and the fourth bolts, where the climb makes a right turn.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Jan 18, 2007
I would definitely not give this route 4 stars, although it was fun. It goes through the white streak, which is all bat shit. Yes, you are climbing through bat shit so be sure to wash your hands when you're done, especially if you're going to eat something. Also, some of the bolts on this climb looked pretty questionable. One was totally hopeless, by you don't have to clip it. The anchor bolts also looked fairly rusty.
Grotto, The
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