Mosquito Coast

Description 

Right on the S Fork of the American River, under the Mosquito Bridge. Solid, extremely smooth water polished granite. 30-40 feet high, mostly overhanging, difficult cracks of all sizes. Many newer anchors on the top of the cliff, sometimes a little hairy to get to. A lot of superb bouldering along the base of the cliff: landings are hard so a pad is nearly a must. In summer, best to climb in early am or in evening: days are very hot. Fall, winter, spring: daytime best, after the sun gets down in there to dry off the dew. Winter can be very cold and icy, spring run off can make it impossible to climb: water level has been seen to the top of the cliff.
Note that climbers are not to use the bridge for any anchoring. this can result in a hefty fine.
See Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA for full details.

Getting There 

Driving east on Hy50, exit on the Broadway off-ramp in Placerville. Go right, then right again back under the freeway overpass. Just before get on the westbound on-ramp, turn left onto Mosquito Road. Follow Mosquito Road to the top of the ridge, where it turns left off Union Ridge Road. This narrow, windy road descends all the way to the bridge. 20mins-30mins from Placerville. Parking is the main problem. It is best to park in the last turnout before reaching the bridge. This is a wide spot with a retaining wall on the outside and a creek on the uphill. Turn around in this wide area and park facing uphill. There is a lot of traffic on this road, it is very narrow, and the locals are very grumpy about being delayed. You would be too if you had to commute up and down this road every day. Walk down to the bridge. You can drop down under the bridge and hop boulders across up river when the water is low. Otherwise, go to the north side and either rappell off anchors along the cliff top or walk around the top of the bridge abuttment and follow a poison oak strewn game trail to the east that descends to a gravel bar.
Alternative parking would be to park in the large outside turnoff before the last hairpin left curve that drops to the bridge. A ten minute walk down the road from here to the bridge. The advantage to this is avoidance of the narrowest part of the road to the bridge.

The Classics