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Courtright Reservoir
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A Little Nukey 
Carson-Kodas Arete 
Little Black Sambo 
This Pussy Eats You 

This Pussy Eats You 

5.10b

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 90 feet
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Views: 122 page views

Submitted By: Dave Daly on Dec 14, 2007


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Description 

Route Description

The route is fairly straight forward. Simply ascend the crack (the direct boulder start is rated 5.10b) to where the crack splits into a "Y" shape which creates two parallel cracks (thus the routes' namesake!). Twenty feet above the split, make a short traverse to the left on a small horizontal crack. The two cracks can be stemmed and jammed (5.9) to the top of the climb. Or the left most crack can be jammed (.10a) to make the route more challenging. There are two anchor bolts at the top of the climb. Pro to 2". The upper section requires smaller gear (3/8" to 3/4")


Location 

When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairne that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall on the left side appears. This is Tiger Cage. Continue uphill 100 yards further and locate a single crack, that eventually splits into two parallel crack 20 feet above the base. This is the start of 'This Pussy Eats You'.


Protection 

Essential Gear

+ Single 50 meter rope
+ A few slings for directionals
+ Pro to 2" (#1 Metolious TCU and several medium pieces... nuts work well too!)