Eunuch in a whorehouse 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.12+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 30 feet Views: 91 page views Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 27, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Stay to the Left of the crack on knobs using the crack only occasionally for a thin finger lock and right foot. Gastones, mantles, crimps, sloapers, finger jams, slab and even a dyno for some are the name of the game for this test piece. This route utilizes many different forms of climbing in one short delicate pitch. Leading this route would be insane to even think about and would definitely take a lot of nuts. Small brass ones to be exact.

Location 

Very thin crack 50ft Right of the Ten Minute Crack. Climb on the left of the crack not up it. And try and avoid stepping on the BS, useless chicken bolt next to the crack that is supposed to protect the opening moves of Scorpio...or better yet, chop the SOB.

Protection 

Top Rope, or..... Small nuts, ball nuts and microcams. Maybe a bat hook and some duct tape (sheesh!)