Located right in the middle of the 10 Minute Cliff is the cliff's namesake Ten Minute Crack. Apparently it was so named because of the time it took to hammer pitons into the narrow crack. Now these piton scars are the 'quality' finger holds you'll be using as you struggle you way up it. While its a short climb, its still excellent and teaches the 5.12 crack novice (me) a thing or two about crack climbing.
Protection
Pro to 2" but mostly very small. Up top there are two bolts at the edge of the cliff and a third, older bolt further back.
Was rated 5.10 d in the mid 70's. I guess it's gotten harder.
By Salamanizer From: Vacaville Ca. Mar 24, 2006 rating: 5.11d
It hasn't gotten harder, people just got sick of all the ego maniacs sandbagging everything and gave it a more true rating.
On another note, I don't know what you'd need a 2" piece for. A 2" piece will be over cammed in the short hands section up high. Something just smaller...say, 1.5" to 1.75" fits perfectly.
Here's what I used (in order) Blue Alien, Green Alien, Blue Metolius (just below mono digit bottle neck up high), #7 HB offset just above that, and a #1 BD C4 in the short hands section previously mentioned. Then I ran it out to the top. Short, but long enough to make me pucker.
RSS Feed
