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Buck's Bar Dome
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Test Piece 

5.8

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 510 page views

Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 26, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Test Piece from the base.


Description 

Climb up the less than vertical crack in the right corner of the main area.

Sustained, this route gives excellent liebacks and jams the whole way up the crack. Trusting your feet on the excellent granite of Buck's Bar Dome is a must, but you can make it to the top!

This route shares a top anchor with Adhesion (5.10c withvariations more difficult) just to the right on the face and rounded arete.


Protection 

Pro up to 2 1/2" will suffice.

To set up a toprope:You can access the top anchors by walking aroundto the top of Buck's Bar Dome via the exit path tothe left.



Comments on Test Piece Add Comment
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By percious
From: Arvada, CO
Nov 13, 2007

You may want to double up on 1-1 1/2" cams.

By Christopher Michaelson
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+

I agree with doubling up on the smaller cams if you choose to lead this route.

I set up a TR anchor using the two bolts at the top of the route. There is a little bit of rust on one of the bolts, so I also backed up the anchor using two more bolts that were close by.

This is a fun climb, and the crux is just a bit over half way up. Stick to the right-most crack, and lie-back your way to the top (you'll definitely have to jam to surmount the crux).