Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenber...
Description
Nestled into the Western Sierra near the town of Placerville, youwill find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from shortbouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines.
Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water overmany mnay years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talkingyosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.
Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks,there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also agreat place for the development of new routes.
There are no access fees for climbing in Consumnes River Gorge.
Decents are as varied as the climbing.
Getting There
From I-80 near Placerville, exit the Spring street exit, and headinto town (South). Go to 1 -2 blocks to main street, where youshould go left. Go about 1/2 a mile to Cedar Revine Road, whereyou should go right. Stay on Cedar Revine about 5 1/4 milesuntil it ends into Pioneer Trail. Go left on Pleasant ValleyRoad, and make the first right (about 1/5 mile) onto Buck's Barroad. Head about 2.9 miles downhill on Buck's bar road, whereyou will find pullouts on the left and right. If these pulloutsare full, continue downhill in your car and park in the pulloutjust before the bridge.
Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in themiddle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is pavedfor the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill andtakes about 10 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cosumnes River Gorge:
I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time.
I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing.
From Hwy 50 exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with pleasent Valley rd and take that to Bucks Bar.
If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.
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