This is the chimney on the right side of Tibeten T...
Description
This climb dishes it all. Fingers, hands, fist, offwidth, and chimney.
The first pitch climbs through some funky wide stuff, 5.8. Has big bolted anchors.
Pitch 2 is the "crux". Topo's I've seen call the cross over from the left to right crack system 10a. If you climb to the top of the left crack then down climb the ramp to the right, not harder than 5.9. Go through roof to a bolted ledge. We climbed through these and linked the 3'rd to the big ledge above.
The fourth pitch is a short pitch w/ chimney.
5'th is the money 5.8 fingers/hands. Really good. Has bolted anchors at top. One more pitch to the twelve o'clock ledge.
If you walk over to the far left side of the ledge you will find some wrap anchors that drop you into silk road which you can wrap to the base of the route. NEED 2 60 METER ROPES! Or you can stay on route through 5 more pitches of run out slab climbing. We climbed two more pitches up the right side of Tibetan towers which is found on the left side of 12 o'clock ledge. The first pitch is easy 5.6 and second is dirty 5.8 chimney. The top of the second is really dirty. You will find wrap anchors for silk road at the top of Tibetan tower which you can take to the ground, or you can link back to the original route on war lord ledge which heads right.
Location
Climbs up the left side of the hour glass buttress. Starts just to the right of silk road.
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