This climbs a line near the center of the North side of the dome. Start from a terrace and to the left of a right facing dihedral. Climb a 5.10a crack to a belay. Continue up the crack (5.10b) to a belay with two Bolts. These two pitches can be combined with a 60M rope. Move up a left leaning arch to a sling belay (5.10c). Climb a 5.8 crack and corner to a two bolt belay. A 5.9 corner is followed to a two bolt belay at it's end. Climb 5.9 face past two bolts, then up and right to a third bolt and head left to a two bolt belay. Face climb past a bolt to a left-leaning dike system. Follow this past two more bolts to a sling belay from two bolts. Head up to a short 5.6 corner, then face climb to a two bolt belay. Move up a right-leaning arch to where it is possible to climb up face to a 5.5 crack to a two bolt belay at the cracks end. Class 4, leads to a two bolt belay.
Either Rappel the route (two ropes) or walk off to the right.
Location
Head up to the right side of the face then follow a terrace to the left, to the base of the route.
I've done quite a few multipitch trad routes and this is one of the finest at its grade. Better then Serenity Crack/ Sons of Yesterday in the Valley - this route is that good.
The 5.10 splitter first pitch, when linked, offers perhaps the best pure granite crack climbing at the grade in the state of California (Yosemite included). This pitch alone adds two stars to the route as a whole.
Calaveras Dome
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