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Calaveras Dome
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Old Smokey 
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Old Smokey 

5.9

   

FA: Jeff Altenburg, Bob Pinkney 1977.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 7 pitches, Grade III
Views: 371 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on May 7, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Old Smokey Topo.


Description 

As seen from the road, this follows the corner system on the far right of the North side.
Climb up a right leaning ramp/corner to a two bolt Belay.
Continue up passing a 5.8 lieback to a belay from a ledge.
Climb face past a bolt (5.9) and up to a crack. belay at it's end.
Traverse left and follow a right leaning crack to a belay in the main corner after passing a small roof.
Continue up the corner for two more pitches.
On the last pitch, climb up the corner to where it leans off to the left either climb straight up (5.7) or follow the corner.

Descend to the right.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By tradryan
Aug 22, 2009

I did this route in June and the topo posted here doesn't make much sense to me so here's my beta:
The climb starts in the big, beautiful left facing corner on the far right of the North face.
Pitch 1: Climb easy terrain and then into the left facing corner to a new two-bolt belay. 5.6 200'
Pitch 2: Climb the left facing corner system through a bulge until you reach the top of the pillar at the next two-bolt belay. 5.8 100'. Highest quality pitch.
Pitch 3: This is where it gets interesting. The bolt on the topo isn't there although this section isn't runout, just a few moves to regain the corner. For the lack of a belay I ran this pitch for ~215'. The climb just shoots up the dihedral (pretty darn obvious) and I belayed at an older three-bolt station. 5.9, not soft. With a #3 camalot as my biggest piece it was also pretty darn runout.
Above this the route looks like it becomes a jungle adventure. Probably pretty cool if that's your sort of thing but we decided to bail. Rapping with a single 60 m rope was easy due to the plethora of bolted face routes that have sprouted up on the expansive blank face just left of the corner system.