Matt Grieger nears the anchor following one of the...
Description
This route climbs the obvious right-leaning, right facing corner, to thr right of "Gemini Cracks". Wander up a bushy ramp to a broken area beneath the main corner. Climb a pitch to the base of the leaning corner and belay. Follow the corner to a belay below a roof (5.7). A 5.6 pitch leads right, around the roof and up to a belay. Rappel.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 24, 2007 rating: 5.7
One of my very favorite routes on the planet!!
The dihedral takes LOTS of 1/2"-3/4" gear. Bring extra or plan to leap-frog your gear up the crack.
By Salamanizer From: Vacaville Ca. Oct 1, 2007 rating: 5.7
Pretty clean dispite some seepage. Nice and sustained through the corner. You can do it in two pitches with a 70m rope. It was good for the grade but I'll never do it again. Tweaks the hell out of your back from leaning to one side for so long.
Lots of old 1/4 inch bolt stems along the route - WTF?
One of my new favorite routes. The supposed 5.8 start to the beginning of P2 did not feel that hard in the dry days of August at 11am. Fantastic friction for the feet meant I just needed to slot hands for a place the hold, looks like a lieback but not strenuous for me. Lots of great nut placements in the small range. Great pro, great rock, secure climbing and holds, just a fun route. Rappel on one 60m rope (three raps, 1 bolt station with rap hangers 2 with chains) Route (east facing) was in the shade most of the climb, made it climbable in August, but the dome is too low in elevation to tackle other climbs in August.
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