Located near the city of Auburn is a large abandoned quarry containing cliffs that reach up to 300 feet. Currently there are approximately 30 developed sport routes up to 75 feet in length,though the potential of the area is probably well over 200.
The rock of the area consists of limestone and several other varieties that make for a very colorful climbing experience.
Some of the rock is still very crumbly, though the most of the developed routes have been cleaned quite thoroughly. Development has occurred on many cliffs, though the higher and more extreme cliffs above and behind the developed areas still await first ascents, bolts, and cleaning.
There are some routes that you can walk off of, though lowering or rappelling is probably the best option on existing routes.
Climbing in Auburn is currently "illegal" because of concerns by the park superintendent that because climbing isn't expressly mentioned as legal in the park rules, it must therefore be illegal. The Access Fund has been brought in, and the future of climbing in Auburn as of right now is uncertain.
Getting There
Due to access concerns, I will not post directions at this time. If you would like directions, I will put you in contact with someone that can give you the low down on climbing in Auburn.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Auburn Cliffs:
To find this climb, look into Horseshoe Canyon. You will see bolted routes on the right-hand wall (extending back towards the "horseshoe"). This climb follows the leftmost set of bolts on that wall.This climb has a little bit of everything. Start with an easy jug haul to a roof section involving an interesting, slopey hole. Continue, and enjoy a slabby/crimpy section followed by more vertical and overhung fun.There are primarily two difficult...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
For an awsome 5.10c climb go to the second big face on the left side. Look for a old car barried down to its' tailgate. The climb is called "tailgate party" and it's a blast. Climb rocks
The security guys WILL take all your gear!!!!! And they have installed video cameras everywhere, but first they will call the cops so you can be arrested and your car will be towed off! This is due to the fact that someone killed themself there several years ago trying to emulate Dad Osman.
There are no cameras, the rangers didn't seem upset that anyone was climbing last time I saw rangers there, yet there is a posted sign that says that technical climbing is prohibited.
Also, the limestone quarry might be reopened in the near future by Teichert Construction as they work on I-80 rehabilitation. I think that sucks.
ONe more thing - I've never climbed so many steep walls with so much dirt and mud all over them. Very dirty rock - increases the grade a bit because of the added difficulty. The wall bleeds water and mud when the ground is damp after a rain storm.
I've been to this Auburn area about 15 times and I've never had a run in with the authorities. We walk up to these climbs with are ropes slung over our shoulders, never any issues(knock on wood) A near by river makes for good swimming in the summer.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Mar 16, 2005
The above person's approach to walking (ropes on their backs approach) into Auburn is HIGHLY discouraged, since one person's ego trip could mean disaster for the rest of us. Climbing in Auburn in definitely in dispute, and until it isn't, climbing here should be as low key as possible. If more people get "busted" for climbing here, the more ranger presence will be felt in the area. Try to be discreet and keep a low profile about climbing in Auburn for everyone's benefit.
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