Since the route begins in a narrow corridor, it is possible to stem the start, then move out on the face after the second bolt or so. The rest of the route clocks in at 5.10c.
HOWEVER,
the start certainly goes without stemming, and offers some very powerful crimping with very poor feet (5.11d/5.12a).
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 21, 2009
Thinking the stemming option verboten, I did the start with only the face-holds, and was promptly surprised by the difficulty—and quality—of the route. Be warned, however, that a fall during the first twenty feet of climbing could end with a decidedly brutal "pinball" fall down the corridor. The non-stemming start is cool, but not secure.
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