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Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 

Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 

5.10b

   

FA: Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary, 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Season: March-October
Views: 648 page views

Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 16, 2007


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Nick attempting the onsight of Tanager (5.10b), at...


Description 

This is the right-leaning crack that is labeled "5.11 crack" in the Ghostrider topo posted on the Ghostrider page. I am not sure what it is actually called or who were the first ascentionists. In anycase, this is an awesome pitch and is only 5.10b or so. Very sustained and pumpy. Jam and layback the crack to the bolts.


Location 

About 50 feet to the right of the Tunnel-through start of Ghostrider. About 20 feet to the left of the 5.9 bolted start of Ghostrider.


Protection 

Nothing but cams. Lots of wide-fingers to hands gear. Two slung bolts are at the top of the crack (without rap rings). Rappel off the slings (do not lower off). Pull the rope slowly so as to avoid weakening the slings.



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By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Sep 10, 2007

The route is called Tanager 5.10b FA by Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary in 1978 if you can believe that!

~Susan

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Sep 10, 2007

Named after the species of bird?

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 10, 2007

The Western Tanager is fairly common in the Sierra during the summer months. It is one of my favorites.



More at http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/BirdGuide/Western>>>>>

By Darrell Hensel
May 20, 2008

Tanager can now be done as a first pitch to Ghostrider. Continue face climbing past two more bolts after reaching the belay bolts at the end of the crack. The extended pitch ends on the large ledge at the last/bottom rappel station of Ghostrider.

The crack is still the crux so the overall rating remains the same. This is probably the best start to Ghostrider.