The original route up the north side of the "dome", very runout, but partially retrobolted by one of the modern routes. Take the middle of the face to a single bolt 35' up, then trend right to an old rusty 1/4" bolt which is only 3' from a modern bolt on "Muffy". Then climb past the last bolts on Muffy and its anchor, to 2 more bolts among loose plates on the way to the summit. Very easy to start Muffy and finish this route to get to the summit. All bolts replaced except the one only 3' from a new bolt, 11/03.
Location
The middle of the north face, then trend right.
Protection
4 bolts, nuts and slings for plates, and more bolts to clip if you don't deliberately skip them. 3-bolt anchor (1 on top, 2 just over the edge), 60/90' rap (90' to ground, 60' to ledge that requires 3rd-class descent to the south).
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