Awesome, high angle face climbing on edges. Sustained, exposed, and well-protected...what more could you ask for?
There is a slabby crux around the 10th bolt (maybe 5.8). Otherwise the route is sustained 5.7 with a variety of different cruxes.
Location
Start in a flaired crack/gully that goes up and right. Step up and left onto the face and climb through two small overhangs. The upper part of the route climbs just left of an obvious, pale water streak. See photo
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 24, 2008
Nearly every bolt on this route was under drilled. As such, many of the 3/8" Rawls protrude from their holes and have space between the hanger and the rock (up to 1/8").
Yeah the bolt job is pretty shoddy. Lots of spinners add to the spice. And sometimes the bolts don't seem in the right place making the route finding important. Otherwise a fine route. Though I was climbing with one arm I'd still say drop the + in the 7 and just go ahead and call it a 5.8.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA May 14, 2008 rating: 5.8
Hmmmm...with the likes of Marty Lewis and Raliegh Collins rating this climb at 5.8, I'll add to that concensus. If you're uncertain on the overall feel of the route, then try the direct start instead of going up the ramp to the right. Harder than 5.8 from that point.
The Loaf
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