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DescriptionThis area plays host to some of the best sections of rock at Clark Canyon. As the name suggests, the island has climbing on all sides, ranging from short pocket pulling at The Alcove, to long sustained climbs at Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff. Getting ThereFrom the parking lot hike up the trail going straight past the boulder. At the split, take the right trail (the left goes to Area 13) up the steep hill to the base of the Main Island. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Island:
Peanut Brittle 5.9 Sport, 85 feet The Alcove
Pull My Finger 5.10a Sport, 3 pitches, 190 feet Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Driller Instinct 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Jihad 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Holy Wars Cliff
Maltese Falcon 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Maltese Falcon Cliff
Dirty Dancing 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Holy Wars Cliff
Featured Route For Main Island
 This is described in the guidebook as perhaps the best route at Clark Canyon. It is a beautiful, long pitch of steep climbing on great rock. Climb the bolted, right-facing dihedral before heading out right on to the face after the fifth (?) bolt. Climb the face to a small roof, passing it on the right, to a long, ever-steepening arete to the anchor. Be careful lowering/rappelling off. A 70-meter rope will lower you to the first bolt of the route...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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