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Holy Wars Cliff
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Dirty Dancing 

5.12b

   

FA: Dan McDevitt & Chris Falkenstein 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 131 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Oct 25, 2006


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Description 

A standout route of the Clark Canyon area, this technical route lies just around the corner to the right of Jihad (5.11c).

Start up easy rock to the 2nd bolt and then dispatch the boulder problem crux, which if you read it correctly isn't all that bad, and then continue to the top on larger and mostly positive holds to the top. There's a slight bulge near the very top which if super pumped could present a problem, but otherwise it's pretty much in the bag.

A can't miss classic for the grade with enjoyable moves, great rock and a bit more climbing than the average route in the area.


Protection 

10 bolts, bolted anchors



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By Randy
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.12b

Actually, after the crux, there are still some pretty technical moves. Fairly sustained climbing.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Nov 2, 2006

True, but the upper moves shouldn't be a real problem if able to do the crux.