This East Side classic was first climbed by Vern Clevenger and Tom Higgins in 1975. It was climbed in the traditional runout style. Alan Hirahara added bolts to this route, but it is rumored that they have been chopped.
P1: From the base of the cliff, climb scary moves off some blocks and onto this beautiful slab. 115' leads to a two-bolt belay.
P2: A 5.8 pitch continues to another two-bolt belay.
P3: One more 5.9 pitch leads to another two-bolt anchor.
To descend, either rappel or walk off to the left.
- All anchor's have three 3/8th" Bolts w/Qiucklinks attached for Rappels. All bolts on route are 3/8th" w/FIXE Hangers.
- This is an "Old Skool" slab route so do not FALL on it. There's a history of broken ankles and legs due to folks getting on this RO'd old route. Stay within 5' lt/rt of the bolt line. On P2, go up to the first obvious bolt and then right. DO NOT GO LEFT onto Alan H's new route that goes to the left.
- DO NOT CHOP ANY OF THE BOLTS....PLEASE!!!! There have been some very controversial actions in the past several years where folks have come and chopped some of the added bolts. This has lead to some long falls resulting in severe fractures. The current bolt count is in Marty Lewis's 3rd edition of "Mammoth Area Rock Climbs" pg.237. This beta is current and many folks come from all over the world expecting to find these bolts. It is still way run out in it's current condition.
If you want to climb it in it's original fashion, only clip the following bolts:
P1: 1, 3 & 5 P2: 2, 4 & 6 P3: All current bolts are in the original location
Be careful and enjoy this incredible "Classic"!
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com May 13, 2008
Old Skool writes: If you want to climb it in it's original fashion, only clip the following bolts: P1: 1, 3 & 5 P2: 2, 4 & 6 P3: All current bolts are in the original location
THAT IS FUCKING RIDICULOUS. Is this what it has come to? Pathetic.
By Jon O'Brien From: Nevada Apr 24, 2009 rating: 5.9+ R
This is an "OLD SCHOOL" classic! STOP ADDING BOLTS UNLESS YOU CLAIM THE FA OR HAVE THE FA PARTY'S BLESSING! Isn't it that simple?! Let's have some pride and respect for our classics! The first ascentionists are locals and are available for input, go ask them next time, if they give their blessing, have at it!(I hope you at least have the integrity to bolt it in the same style they did! There's a REASON there's so few bolts...) If you aren't sure about the climb, don't lead it! There are a plethora of others to lead in our area! I've led it sans extra bolts, it IS scary, it IS run out, it IS a beautiful test piece and very useful for practicing your mental game for the big show! Test piece means test piece, respect the steps of those that came before us, this is not a sport climb, if you think it should be then you are venturing into unknown territory. I vote to restore the climb to it's original condition. If you fear a broken ankle, keep in mind that you pass tons of heavily bolted 5.9's on the drive out...future generations should be able to enjoy it for what it is...(or was) If this was within the confines of Yosemite it would be a moot point. Chop them.
Jon, I'm not advocating the new bolts (either way), but I think that it is a stretch to say that "... you pass tons of heavily bolted 5.9's on the drive out..." Where would these be? Specifically, where are there three pitch, reasonably bolted, 5.9's going up a granite dome in the Sierra?
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