This East Side classic was first climbed by Vern Clevenger and Tom Higgins in 1975. It was climbed in the traditional runout style. Alan Hirahara added bolts to this route, but it is rumored that they have been chopped.
P1: From the base of the cliff, climb scary moves off some blocks and onto this beautiful slab. 115' leads to a two-bolt belay.
P2: A 5.8 pitch continues to another two-bolt belay.
P3: One more 5.9 pitch leads to another two-bolt anchor.
To descend, either rappel or walk off to the left.
- All anchor's have three 3/8th" Bolts w/Qiucklinks attached for Rappels. All bolts on route are 3/8th" w/FIXE Hangers.
- This is an "Old Skool" slab route so do not FALL on it. There's a history of broken ankles and legs due to folks getting on this RO'd old route. Stay within 5' lt/rt of the bolt line. On P2, go up to the first obvious bolt and then right. DO NOT GO LEFT onto Alan H's new route that goes to the left.
- DO NOT CHOP ANY OF THE BOLTS....PLEASE!!!! There have been some very controversial actions in the past several years where folks have come and chopped some of the added bolts. This has lead to some long falls resulting in severe fractures. The current bolt count is in Marty Lewis's 3rd edition of "Mammoth Area Rock Climbs" pg.237. This beta is current and many folks come from all over the world expecting to find these bolts. It is still way run out in it's current condition.
If you want to climb it in it's original fashion, only clip the following bolts:
P1: 1, 3 & 5 P2: 2, 4 & 6 P3: All current bolts are in the original location
Be careful and enjoy this incredible "Classic"!
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com May 13, 2008
Old Skool writes: If you want to climb it in it's original fashion, only clip the following bolts: P1: 1, 3 & 5 P2: 2, 4 & 6 P3: All current bolts are in the original location
THAT IS FUCKING RIDICULOUS. Is this what it has come to? Pathetic.
South Face
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