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PSOM Slab
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Breaking & Entering 
PSOM Pinnacle 
Serious But Not Desperate 
Wanted Man 

Wanted Man 

5.9+

   

FA: Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman, Greg Smith 10/08
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 160 feet
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Views: 263 page views

Submitted By: Adam Winters on Mar 31, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: 'Wanted Man' topo


Description 

The start to this is a bit of a tease, as it makes you work for that flake above. The left option isn't bad when you figure out the move, and the right way feels like 5.11 just getting off the ground, without a cheater-stone. The choice is yours, but the climbing above is worth the effort.

Pitch 1: Pull a funky high-step/rock-over down low and left on the slab to reach edges and the flake (crux). OR, start to the right in the seam with a tough move off the ground with or without cheater-stones (crux). Work up and right following the nice flake, thru a wider section until you reach the short finger crack in the hidden right-facing corner. Step left around the arete via a large high foothold and work up and left to the thin flake. Continue straight up to the short 'V' groove then make a big step right into the main crack system just below the sketchy-looking block. Climb up to the belay stance just left of the detached block (same belay as 'Breaking & Entering').

Pitch 2: Same as 'B&E'. Step up and right, under the tree, then up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam above. Follow into the next crack on the right, then up to the big ledge. Build an anchor.

Scramble up then right along the ledge to one of the 2 descent gullies.

It's hard to rate this thing. The crux is certainly getting off the ground, possibly 5.10ish, then it's mostly straightforward 5.7 climbing.


Location 

Just left of 'Breaking & Entering', near the very left side of the slab.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3"



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The bottom of 'Wanted Man'

BETA PHOTO: The bottom of 'Wanted Man'


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By jeremy freeman
Jun 13, 2009

space tits/ this route will soon have an awesom 2nd pitch.