Pitch 1: Climb an easy left-facing obtuse corner to the tricky roof on the right. A finger crack under the roof (crux) leads to a sidepull jug around the lip (watch rope drag and the rope on the sharp edge of the roof for your follower). Easier ground leads to a nice thin finger crack on the slab. Climb the crack then step left to a good belay stance just left of a detached block sitting on a small ledge, and under a large bush. Build an anchor with hand-size pieces. (5.10b)
Pitch 2: Step right, under the tree, then up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam. Follow it up, then right to the next crack, and up to the big ledge. Build an anchor. (5.7)
Scramble up thru the micro gully, then walk off right, descending either of the two gullies.
Location
The obvious corner and roof just left of the only tree at the base of the slab. About 100 feet up and to the right of the very left edge of the slab.
Protection
Standard rack to 3"
1st belay beta: #2, #3, #4 Camalots possible and a perfect large stopper up high.
A #.5 Camalot works just after the roof, to keep the rope off that edge for the follower (we had a core-shot on the FA when a follower fell under the roof).
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