Tai Devore FA-ing pitch one. The top of pitch thr...
Description
Ascends the largest right-facing corner on the 'Scheelite Wall' in 3 pitches, continuing up the obvious crack systems thru ledges to a memorable last pitch. Most of the climbing is 5.7ish, with one sequence of 5.10a/b, which could most likely be bypassed by a couple wider cracks or face climbing.
Pitch 1-3: Climb a wide, flaring crack/groove in a large corner (mostly 5.7) to a tricky mini roof (5.9) to a short squeeze section just before reaching the top of the pillar (5.9) with a nice ledge. Bolt anchors.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up, left of the tree thru the crack systems on the slab to a nice short hand-crack after a bush. Pull a short slab to the bolt anchor on a ledge. (5.7)
Pitch 5: Scramble/walk up and right to the base of the next headwall. Climb the short wide crack past blocks to the curving finger crack on the right (crux-5.10a/b) using the crack and edges to meet up with the wide crack and the ledge just higher up. Bolt anchor.
Pitch 6: Scramble down and left to the base of the obvious large crack system with a short gang plank at the base. Climb up, over, or between large hollow flakes and straight up the crack/groove to the chimney with a bolt. Squeeze your way up and thru as the angle eases back. Find a crack on the left wall that leads up and out to a large ledge. (5.8+) Build an anchor somewhere to the left or scramble over to the right side of the large crack to the rappel anchor next to the right-hand slab.
Double-rope rappel on the 6th pitch.
Location
The obvious right-facing corner towards the left side of the 'Scheelite Wall'.
Protection
Standard rack to 3", bigger stuff available. Bolt anchors/mussy hooks. Two 60m ropes thru pitch 6. If you only have one 60, you can climb thru pitch 5.
By Adam Winters Administrator From: Bishop, CA Mar 28, 2009
Named for the 4-foot block that unexpectedly came off onto Greg's leg while cleaning the 2nd pitch. He was mantling the solid-looking block when it started to tip. Jeremy and I were 20 feet above him at the belay when we heard him shriek- we looked down when the block came unstuck and seemed to topple over in slow-motion onto Greg. He desperately tried to throw it to his side and thankfully it only grazed his leg/ankle. How he kept climbing is amazing to me.
The block severed the fixed line 10 feet below him.
There were 4 of us on the route when it went down, luckily Greg was the last one up! Anyone at the base would have been hamburg...
Nice work guys on a great route. You can rap with one 60m from P-5 to base with ease (especially now since the rope snagger on P-2 is gone thanks to Tai). Always glad to hear Greg is still with us.
Good route, actually a lot better than I expected! An obviously tremendous effort ws required to clean all the dirt and choss off of this thing but what Tai and crew left for us eastsiders when finished was nothing short of kick ass! Thanks!
I only take gear to three, you can get bigger stuff in but there is always smaller options. A variation of the sixth pitch can be done if you break out right along a horinontal feature ten feet above the chimney. This is somewhat runout but it is fairly easy, traverse 40 feet right and slightly up to a solid cam placement, then up and left to a slab to the anchor. More fun climbing on good rock.
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