The great finger and hand-crack, on, and just left of the arete.
Start off with a nice ergonomic, rounded finger crack to multiple rests on good face holds. Continue up the gradually widening crack with great jams, into wide hands with good features in the back. Traverse left at the top on a good handrail and jugs to the 'Nirvana' anchors.
The crux is perhaps the first 20 feet, then it mellows out...
Easily top-roped from the 'Nirvana' anchors. It would be a shame to climb 'Nirvana' and not try it.
Location
Left-side of the 'Social Platform', just right of 'Nirvana'.
Lewis's guide gives this a 10d; the previous edition had it at 10c. I'll call it hard 5.10 through the first twenty feet, not .10b per this posting, and in any case v. worthy. The route protects well on all cams (v. small through 2.5 inches) + draws for the three bolts on the arete.
This went back and forth between 10d and 10c in previous Gorge guides. I go with 10d - only a few moves, but off balance and powerful. Easier for big fingers.
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