Buttermilks Main

The Peabodies and their neighbors with a dusting o...

Description 

One of the premier bouldering destinations in the country, if not the world.

This is the main bouldering area in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders in the area, along with a very short approach. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is breathtaking.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the 'Stained Glass/Flyboy Area' on the west end of the hillside, across the hillside Eastwards to the giant 'Peabody Boulders'.

Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.

Getting There 

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area, or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road, off a right-hand side road.

Featured Route For Buttermilks Main

Saigon V5-6  CA : Sierra Eastside : Saigon Boulder

This awesome, singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank o...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Buttermilks Main

A look at 'Buttermilks Main', from high on the mor...

Bouldering at Buttermilks Main