By Ben Snyder From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT) Mar 26, 2008
I think Stained Glass starts on two shallow, slanted crimps at head/chest level. The low start from the jug is a different problem, but feels only slightly harder (still V10).
Although I'm credited with the FA of this gem, it was climbed within the same month in 1995 by Fred Nichole and Kevin Thaw, and no one seemed to know who bagged it first. The problem was tagged Stained Glass by Bruce (Kinnaloa) Pottinger for a mini guide he created in a quarterly SoCal climbing zine, and rated V7 (presumably because Bruce couldn't conceive it being any harder than Midnight Lightning). Nichole called it Livre Ouvert, or Open Book.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Apr 4, 2009 rating: V10
Midnight Lightning is a cakewalk compared to this thing.
Great problem, regardless of the FA or grade though.