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Dog Day Afternoon 

5.11

   

FA: FA: (TR) Dag Kolsrud, (FL) Claude Fiddler
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Season: All
Views: 278 page views

Submitted By: Adam Winters on Apr 7, 2007


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Wrenching on the last finger lock before the juggy...


Description 

Overhanging hands to fingers with a thin-hands crux. Throw for the juggy lip exiting the crack. Poorly placed bolt anchor on a small, detached, vibrating block (someone should replace this). Short, sweet, and STEEP!



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Mitch Musci battles the thin-hands crux and likes pizza.

Mitch Musci battles the thin-hands crux and likes ...

JP locking the sequence on the send.

JP locking the sequence on the send.


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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 22, 2007

FA: Dag Kolsrud TR, Claude Fiddler first lead.

By Alex
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.11

WARNING!!!! DO NOT RAP OFF THIS ANCHOR!!! MAJOR DEATH POTENTIAL!!!

Ditto on the absolutely sketchy anchor placement. That block is very loose!! I can't believe that I saw ASCA stamped on the hangers!! WHOMEVER PUT THIS NEW ANCHOR IN NEEDS TO HAVE THEIR DRILL TAKEN AWAY FROM THEM AND THEIR BOLTING PRIVILEGES REVOKED!!! Aside from some alpine anchors, this is the scariest one I have ever seen and one of the poorest examples of "Safe Climbing" ever!!

The proper bolting "local authorities" have been notified!!

Cool, short route otherwise!!

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 31, 2008

Great route...but an absolute ASS KICKER. Short, steep and fierce.

Never noticed the vibrating block...did notice that the anchor placement itself is just STUPID...lots of that in Little Egypt.