A long, beautiful and sustained off-width pitch in a giant, clean-cut dihedral. This is one of the most obvious lines in the canyon- the one your eyes are drawn to first. If you're up for a good grovel, this is your route; straightforward and long.
Two 60 meter ropes to rappel.
During colder months, hit this early in the morning as it dips into the shade around noon, maybe earlier. In fact you may not see it at all. Tends to be a windy canyon.
Location
You can see the route from the road on the left side of the two giant dihedrals. "Pratt's" splits the classic white Sierra granite on the right and the dark patina wall on the left. Hard to miss!
Protection
Gear to 10", small TCU's useful deep in the secondary crack, BIG camalots and friends (#6), up to blue big bro, and chockstones. Bolted anchor.
A blue big bro (10") could be useful if you have one (I did not), as there is a 15 foot section that is bigger than the green one(8"). Only a single set of cams is necessary as you can walk a #6 friend up most of the way.
A really fun climb and much easier than it looks. There are lots of face holds and features on the edge of the crack. It really is not your typical off-width grovel.
Despite the large size very little gear is needed for this route. I suggest 1 #6 C4 and 1 #5 C4 (or same sized friends) and then 2-3 finger size pieces (yellow and grey aliens). Also bring many slings and/or quickdraws for chockstones.
A second #6 and #5 could be brought but you really just push the #6 above you until the crack gets too big (8" -10") then you just squeeze in until it thins down again!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
