Great long crack and face climb with a tenuous 5.11 crux that is so much more fun if you just yard on the 3rd bolt. With that single point of aid, the climb is a super fun, varied 5.9/10a. Note: the 2nd bolt is not really needed now, but on the ground-up FA, this bolt was placed from a sloper that turned out to be the top of a lodged block that we trundled, leaving a bomber jug and a far easier mantle. If you clip it, then once the 3rd is clipped, unclip the 2nd to reduce rope drag.
Location
Around the arete left of the left start of Rites of Spring, climb a corner past a bush for 40' until you can make a fingertip traverse right (huge stem if you're tall) to a flake hand crack. Take this to a bolt, move right (hidden bolt), mantle to 3rd bolt. Yard on this to a huge edge, and take the ever-widening crack to the top.
Protection
Pro to 3.5", 3 bolts, double pro 1-3". Include thin cams. 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks, rap twice with single 60m rope (to the anchor of Friendly Faces Everywhere). An optional 4.5" piece can be used near the top.
If this route goes all free shouldn't the rating reflect that with a note you can "yard on the 3rd bolt" to make it 5.9+ AO, especially since 5.11 isn't so difficult (relatively speaking)?
Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's Crack Area
RSS Feed
