This landmark problem was first climbed by Jason Kehl, and stands as a North American classic. At 55 feet, it is closer to a route than a boulder problem, and represents a new breed of boulder problems pushing the envelope of highball bouldering. The initial face was first ascended by Chris Sharma around the same time that he did 'The Mandala'. Originally, Chris simply dropped off from the lip holds at 20+ feet (most people down climb a bit before dropping). The initial face features steep patina crimps on immaculate rock streaked with yellow lichen. The drop-off problem is a classic in its own right and checks in at V9/10.
Jason’s visionary line pulls the thin lip moves above the drop-off problem and continues onto an insecure 5.11 slab. The upper crux is purportedly V9. Since Jason’s ascent, a variation has been established that takes are rightward exit that has easier moves, but on less than solid rock.
I think what molony might be thinking of is Transporter Room, an old Dale Bard problem that went up that face. Other than that, I can't say whether "Evilution to the Lip" treads new ground or not.
I'm basing that belief on the OLD Eastside guide that had poorly written topos of the Milks. In fact, mine could be a incorrect recollection of a correct description, or vice versa. To be honest, I never cross referenced that against the the new Mick Ryan guide (which I also have) since I've never been good enough to climb that hard that far OTD. I've bouldered there and just also thought that that's where Transporter Room went.
Yep- that would be the one. It seems as though the B2 would be "Evilution to the Lip" and that aspect faces the road more. The left hand .12c may not actually exist, I saw some folks out there with ladders to scope holds and some chalk on it for the first time ever. The location of Transporter Room is actually pretty close but the face that it is on is much wider and runs more perpendicular to the road. The easier routes are further right still around a blunt arete and starting near the blunt arete and heading left into the towering face that overhangs slightly all the way to the top of the boulder which was what I always thought was "Transporter Room" is actually Ambrosia V11+++. A new Kevin J. problem, He had actually also been under the impresion that this was Transporter Room until an actual description of the route was availible and made it apparent that it was closer to the left arete of the face.
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