Even though this pitch has a significant blemish, it has so much good climbing on it that I still have to give it top marks.
The better start follows the arete left of the chimney and sets you up for an off-vertical technical crux after the first bolt. The problem with this approach is that the first bolt can be a difficult and dangerous clip for the reach impaired. The alternate start is to climb easily up the chimney, traversing left onto Lt. U at its third bolt; the route loses at least a star when done this way.
A compromise approach is to climb the chimney, clip the third bolt, downclimb to the ground, then climb the direct line toproped, leading on after the third bolt. The climbing above the third bolt is steep, juggy and exciting with an endurance crux getting to the last bolt.
Extra value: a huge, clean pendulum is to be had after cleaning the last bolt while lowering.
Location
Start at the base of a chimney on the right edge of the south face of the DC.
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