Climb big holds and a fun crack up to a dihedral and above. A 5.9 variation ("Yellow Belly") moves left after the 7th bolt to the anchors of "Peking Duck".
Another highlight of the bolted crack tour, this would be a much more satisfying pitch if bolts had only been placed where good gear placements did not exist.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes Mar 26, 2007 rating: 5.10c
The right slanting corner at the top of the pitch is a great finish.
While usually I am against bolting cracks, in this case it makes sense. The rock at the gorge is usually so loose to begin with that leading on gear can be quite dangerous. After being bolted and ascended hundreds of times, the rock cleans up and the results are the clean and classic lines that you encounter when you climb in the gorge today. Had this line not been bolted (I'm sure Croft could have easily led it all on gear) it never would have been climbed much, and would in all likelihood still be covered in loose rock. Would that be more satisfying to you? As it is, you are still free to lead it on gear. If you brought your rack down into the gorge with you, that is...
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jun 1, 2008
Always a fun ride. I remember hanging at the transition 7 years ago. It's so well protected there I'm not sure why I hung. Recently did it again and just kept going. Good times.
Great Wall of China
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