O.R.G.asam (5.11a) in the Upper Gorge. Photo by Ty...
Description
This is the striking crack line on the right side of the Dihedrals, and is located between Bushfire (5.12c) and Slackjaw (5.10a).
Boulder up to a high first bolt (optional gear here) and then lieback your way up the splitter crack/flake to finish with a seam on a steep slab. Decent crack climbing skills will negate the need for anything but quickdraws, but if unsure take some gear.
Originally done with only a couple of bolts and gear (and rated 10d), this route slowly evolved over time as more bolts were added here and there, and now stands as a fully bolted and totally classic sport route.
By veedublvr From: ?, Ca Dec 12, 2006 rating: 5.11a R
This route seemed a little runout to me, the first 15 feet to the first bolt is a little sketchy. After that it is just hard pumpy laybacking. Super fun though, all the way to the end.
I always use a couple of pieces (.75" and 1.25") to supplement the spaced first two bolts. There are potential placements higher, but I haven't found them to be necessary.
Why is this crack bolted?? Why bolt a crack in the first place. I sport climb, but not cracks. Bolts belong on unprotectable faces, not on perfectly protectable cracks.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Jul 3, 2008
Since you are asking on each route, I'll post for each route:
The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA.
RSS Feed
