From Chocolate to Morphine 

FA:  Fred Berman & Bruce Lella - July, 1991 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 110 feet Views: 396 page views Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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"From Chocolate to Morphine". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.

Protection 

15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.