The incredibly scenic Buttermilk Country has long been one of California's premier bouldering destinations with a long history of ground-breaking ascents and some of the proudest and prettiest lines in the world. Included here are The Mandala, Evilution, Saigon, and High Plains Drifter to name a few. These massive glacial erratic boulders are made of coarse monzonite granite with giant rounded blank faces, polished patina plates, slopers and crimpy edges. The rock could perhaps be compared to that found in Joshua Tree, only slightly grainier. Fingers tend to get torn up fairly quick so bring tape if your callouses aren't sufficient. Many boulders also offer steep and overhanging faces with iron-hard slick patina edges that test your footwork greatly and give your screaming fingertips a break... until you top out.
The bouldering here is BIG. A number of problems feature reachy standing or jumping starts with huge moves, and on many routes you'll soon find your feet well above a height you'd want to bail at. Don't leave any foam at home. Bring all of your pads because lots of the classics top out at 20+ feet. Before you hop on a boulder scout the down-climb first, as many require a big jump to the ground. Be friendly to your neighboring climbers - you may be asking to borrow a pad...
To add to the beautifully unique egg-like boulders, climbers are treated with a splendid backdrop of the towering Sierras, rising almost 14,000 feet to the west.
If you get carried away and have over-done it and you can't boulder anymore there is some fun roped climbing on a handful of small crags not far to the north. If your tips are raw and bleeding, you may want to explore the wacky chasms and rock formations of Buttermilk Dome.
Please respect the designated footpaths in the Buttermilks Main area and avoid tromping through the vegetation. A restoration effort is in effect marked by small green signs about a foot high. PLEASE AVOID THESE AREAS. Do NOT place crash pads on any sort of vegetation. Let's leave as little trace as possible in this amazing gift of an area. Consider yourself fortunate to be climbing here.
Dog Owners: Rattlesnakes are fairly common in warmer months so take precautions and know the risks if you have a furry friend. My dog had a close call and I've heard of a few other run-ins. Most dogs know to avoid them, just be careful. A bite to your pup's face could ruin your trip. Don't let this deter you though, as rattlers usually give plenty of warning that you're getting too close.
Please do not camp at the Peabody Boulders or The Birthday Boulders parking areas. There's plenty of free camping before and after the Buttermilks Main Area.
DO NOT SPEED ON BUTTERMILK ROAD, THE SPEED LIMIT IS 25 MPH Many locals walk and bike on this road, and it's easy to stir up dust if you're driving too fast. Be respectful and slow down. Speeding also causes the painfully annoying washboard ruts you'll find on the way in, so do your part and drive slowly.
Getting There
From downtown Bishop, take W. Line Street/Highway 168 west towards the Sierras. After eight miles or so, turn right onto Buttermilk Road. Follow this bumpy, washboard road for approximately 3.5 miles to the main area on your right. If you pass the Peabodies without noticing, you probably aren't a climber, because they are gigantic. The boulders are incredibly obvious on the right (north) side of the road. Park in designated areas.
For more complete information and great color photographs, refer to: "Bishop Bouldering", by Wills Young and Mick Ryan. Pick up a copy at Wilson's Eastside Sports for $36, a small price to pay for perhaps the best bouldering guide out there and a great addition to your book collection.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttermilk Country:
Quite possibly the best warm-up ever... A couple laps on this will get the blood flowing on those crisp mornings.Sit-start low on big edges on the right side of the overhanging face and work your way up and left along the lip of the roof on good jugs. Pull over the lip to the top....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I must agree with the administrator's advice to DRIVE SLOWLY on Buttermilk Rd. I rolled my Dodge Dakota a few years back being a dumb kid and taking a corner way too fast.
Hi, is summer a good period to climb at the Buttermilk? I plan to climb during august. Thank you. Flo, a Belgian climber.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes Jan 18, 2009
You can climb there in the summer, but don't plan on sending anything too hard, and don't plan on climbing there all day.
Early morning, or late afternoon / evening can provide conditions for you to sample the delights of the Buttermilks.
Also if you think that it is too hot, there is plenty more great climbing closeby which will be cooler. Way Lake is a relatively new area which has many great problems and will almost certainly be cooler and climbable in August. For more info just google "way lake bouldering".
Hey Flo, I see that you are checking here as well for info, good move getting an early start on gathering info.
Euan is correct, Bishop regularly tops 100 degrees farenhiet (37' C) in the summer months. I have bouldered at the Buttermilks in August but only as a rest day activity between doing routes in the High Sierras. Too many 25 km days of hiking will get to you.
Though apparently Chris S. managed to reclimb the Buttermilker this past summer over 2 days which would have to be about the worst hard problem to try and do in hot conditions but then again he just is not normal.
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