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 Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!DescriptionThis east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required). Getting ThereFrom where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Faulty Tower:
Stradivarius 5.8 Trad
Perched 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Crash Landing 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Lalaland 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Crybaby 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For Faulty Tower
 From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut d...[more] Browse More Classics in CA |
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