the Dike Route 

FA:  John Bald et al. Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  8 pitches, 1100 feet Views: 509 page views Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 23, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: A good view of the Southeastern face of Castle Dom...

Description 

The route climbs on or near a dike for 1100 feet of well featured face climbing. Climbing is sustained continuous 5.8 with many 5.9 sections and a few short 5.10 cruxes. Expect 20 to 30 foot runouts on 5.8 ground with more protection available during the harder stretches.The route is in the sun in the morning and goes into shade in the mid afternoon. The descent does not return to the base of the route. We found the Laird Davis guidebook description and topo accurate and easy to follow.

We were amazed at the continuous quality of this route; beautiful, relentlessly fun climbing for 900+ feet. Only the last pitch eases off to a nice summit scramble. We did not see any other people all day.

Protection 

2 or 3 old bolts on most pitches. Bolted anchors on about half of the pitches. The crux bolt appears newer. Standard rack focusing on small to medium nuts and TCU's, 8-10 runners.