Excellent route up the East face of Mt. Hubris. The climbing stays pretty easy but is run out.
Pitch 1: 190' 5.5Start at a low point along the East face at a large pine tree below a huge right facing corner. Start out on easy ground up the corner, pass a tree continuue up the face above and belay on a good ledge with a tree.
Pitch 2: 110' 5.6Move up and right following broken rock in a dyke system. When the face nears vertical step right to a bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 3: 150' 5.6 Make a tricky move just above the anchor then run it out across slabs and grooves on the face above until you reach a bolt anchor at small stance.
Pitch 4: 125' 5.4 Continue straight up the low angled face to a large ledge system below to right leaning ramp systems belay from gear.
Pitch 5: 170' 5.6Climb up the right hand ramp system to a notch and an uncomfortable belay from a small tree and an old bolt.(The left hand ramp system also looks very climable and leads to basically the same spot)
Pitch 6: 185' 5.6Traverse 25' left and climb a low angled groove with a piton. If this otion does not look fun to you go straight up the sharp arete to the summit, there is very little pro on this long pitch but the exposure off both sides of the arete is amazing!
Descent: 2 raps down NE face then follow gully down and right.
If one has a 70m rope one can eliminate what has been described as the 4th pitch in this description. Just clip the bolts and gain the ledge. I actually did it with a 60m, but wasn't able to get to the wall on the ledge for a comfy belay, and so just slung the sapling up there (not recommended). I believe it's worth it to eliminate this 4th pitch, though, because it's very, very short (basically a belay move), but one could not probably combine it with the fifth as it is a longer pitch.
By lars johnson From: San Francisco, CA Feb 26, 2007
This a real classic! Right up there with the Matthes Crest.
I agree with AC that pitches 3 and 4 should be combined even with a little simulclimbing. Also the alternative finish is a must do. The standard finish would be a real letdown in comparison. The arete starts out about 10' wide and progressively narrows to a blade with amazing exposure. One could probably fiddle in some pro however it just doesn't seem necessary. Highly recommended, four stars.
Combining p's 3 and 4 via some simulclimbing is NOT a great idea. The moves off of the belay at the bottom of p3 are probably the most difficult and insecure of the entire climb. Having the second do the crux of the climb where a fall might pull the leader off is not a good strategy.
On the other hand if one could combine p's 2 and 3 somehow and thus bypass the belay ledge, you'd make the climb a slightly easier by bypassing two crux moves. Simulclimbing to accomplish this would better as p2 starts out very easy and secure.
Done this quality route about six times. Classic moderate climbing in a stellar location. Will continue to introduce it to new climbers for years to come.
Extra beta for those in need:
There is no clear approach path, owing to the low traffic - just a maze of discontinuous user trails. Generally, stay high on the plateau (north side, along a shallow ridge) and trace you way west towards Mt Hubris. Drop south when you’re close - not before. Look for a big poderosa at the base. And dont wear shorts.
Pitch 4 (full 60m): go up a ramp (guidebook calls it a shallow chimney), past the small tree with a fixed pin, and belay from a notch.
Pitch 5 (final): pass through the notch and traverse west a short distance on the south side of the summit. A few awkward moves up a flared chimney take you to the top. Alternately, pass through the notch and move straight up the runout arete.
When belayed and protected ideally, confident leaders will find that each of the five pitches is 60m. A steep rappel takes you home.
The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris
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