A pile of meta basalt rocks, Indian Joe caves offers top roping, bouldering and the occasional trad lead on formations reaching up to 40 feet. The holds tend to be either angular or crimpy and the climbing can be anything from slab, cracks, chimney, impressive aretes, or overhung faces. There's also a wide range of existing climbs, 5.3 to 5.12c. There is also the potential for several climbs with difficulties considerably higher.In the summer, Indian Joe Caves get pretty warm and it would be wisest to avoid climbing the routes that get sun, as the black rock absorbes the sun's heat and makes climbing almost unbearable. Fortunately, there's always a handful of climbs that never get sun and therefore are a lot cooler than their brighter counterparts.
Getting There
After entering the park, pass the first left turn (about 50 yards in), which heads to the visitors center, and park just beyond on the left side of the road next to a trailhead (about another 50 yards). Hike across the wooden bridge over a stream, and head right at the junction. Continue another 50 yards until you come to Hayfield Road (which you're not allowed to drive on... though bikes and horses are permitted). Go left on Hayfield road and walk up the road for .8 miles. There's an obvious sign directing you to Indian Joe Caves, follow it right, you'll be able to see the crag up the hill on your left a little ways down this smaller trail. This will meet with the Indian Joe Creek Trail and continue up hill for another ~300 yards until you arrive at the crag. The first landmark is the tallest rock, with a sharp arete on the right, the arete is Orange Arete (11a) and the face is Little Eiger (12c). Paths circumnavigate the climbing area, and most of the warm-up stuff is reached fastest by going clockwise around the area to the backside.
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